TURKEY 3.

JULIUS' THIRD TRIP TO TURKEY IN NOVEMBER 2000.

        INTRODUCTION:    This may not be a perfect essay, my major reason is to tell people what I found and to help them travel budget-wise. A good travel book is also recommended. In my case I was on a free frequent miles trip to Istanbul with return from Athens and a stop-over in Zürich, Switzerland.   November definitely is off-season, it is cooler, of course, and many hotels, hostels, tourist offices and other facilities were closed. But I had no trouble finding buses and hostels priced around 5 Million Türkish Lira or 5000 Drachmes in Greece.
            So let's go. I arrived in Istanbul by Swissair in mid-afternoon which is a good time to get situated in a new city. After taking out a few million  Turkish Lira at the ATM, I walked outside and took a Havas bus. I should have gotten out at Aksaray and taken a tram to Sultanahmet where I knew of budget hotels. Instead I sat in the bus till it got to the terminal which was across the Golden Horn in Taksim. I saw a couple of expensive hotels like the Hyatt and Hilton. I could not get any help from the driver since I did not know Turkish. So he put my bag back on the bus and took me clear back to the airport. Here I went to the Hotel office. It was getting dark, and I did not feel like starting all over, so I ended up in the Sport hotel near Sultanahmet for 55 Million Lira for
2 nights. For that I got a nice room and breakfast. During the day I could walk to the main attractions. Just opposite the Sophia church was a touring bus which I took. Through the ear-phone you can hear in either English, German or French what you see. I enjoyed this trip.
 

Istanbul.

Golden Horn Palace
This is the Golden Horn. Dolmapaçe Palace entrance on Bosphorus.
Ayasofia
Ayasofia in Center of Istanbul.

After two days in Istanbul, I was ready to move again. The hotel Sport furnished a van to take me to the bus-station (Otogar). It cost me 1 million to get in. I purchased a ticket for Çanakkale on the Dardanelles. We were soon off. At first the weather was rainy-like and vision was poor. Later we saw the Marmara Sea, and by the time we were in Gallipoli weather was good. The bus drove a bit further to the small town of Eceabat. Here all passengers had to get out, walk a few meters to a waiting ferry across the Dardanelles where  the sea was just a bit wider than one mile. There was no extra charge for this. At the other side I got out and walked a bit. A taxi driver gave me directions to one of the budget hostels mentioned in my book. After checking in, the taxi driver took me to Troy for a fee of 25 Million L.
There was no other way to get there. Schliemann was the German who discovered and started the dig.
On the way back the taxi driver stopped at a few cannon emplacements.
         From Çanakkale many tourists go to see the battlefield of Gallipoli (1st World War). My hostel was supposed to show a film on this, but I did not want to stay. Lots of Australians and New Zealand men died in Gallipoli.    (I saw a large monument to them in Perth, Australia (http://www.freenet.tlh.fl.us/~heinisj/austral.html)
 
 
Eceabat Trojan horse
Ferry from Eceabat to Çanakkale Trojan Horse
Troy WWI cannons
Troy
Cannons protected Dardanelles during World War II

Next morning I paid for the hostel and was able to send e-mail to my son telling him where I was.
I caught the 11:30 bus toward Izmir. We drove through hilly and flat terrain. Lots of tomatos were being harvested - in November. I also saw lots of pines, cotton, grapes, and some citrus groves.
        I wanted to go to Bergamo. When I saw the road sign, the bus did not go there but continued to Izmir. He only stopped when I called. I got out in what seemed like nowhere. But.... a taxi was there and took me to Bergamo. Here I found a nice Pension (Bolliger). The taxi-driver said he would take me to the historical places next morning for 20 Million L, and I agreed. Indeed he was there as I ate breakfast, included in the lodging price. (It cost 6 Mio L.).   Further down the street was a restaurant where I had a good shish kebab plus a large glass of Tuborg beer. I even got a hair-cut in town for 2.5 Mio L.
        I offered to share the ride with a Japanese girl, but she did not come. So I was alone when the driver took me first to Asclepion.  First we drove by a large military installation then I had to pay 2.25 Mio L to get in. The whole place was dedicated to the healer Asclepias. Galen was also mentioned.  Part of it at least were a hospital. There is a sign somewhere that death is not allowed.... apparently dying patients were not accepted or if it happened, they were pushed out before death.  Lots of columns and other artifacts were to be seen.
        Next the taxi took me up to the Acropolis. The mountain was just outside Bergamo. It was a big expanse. As usual I took lots of pictures. At one time I was a bit annoyed when I saw tourists throwing money at a column in the middle of a big pit. Much of the  ruins were of temples dedicated to Traian and Hadrian Roman emperors.   The amphitheater along the side of the mountain was huge. I wondered what people in the "cheap " upper seats could see.
        Later I also visited the archeological museum in downtown Bergamo.
 
Acropolis
Four photos of Acropolis in Bergama.
 
Aesclapion
Asclepion

        On my next day in Turkey I took the bus first to Izmir and then to Selçuk.
 
Selcuk Carpets
Selçuk, Turkey  Carpets in Selçuk
At the bus station (otogar)  of Izmir a man contacted me and offered me a stay at his hotel in Selçuk. We bargained a bit and I got a nice room in Hotel Nazar for 5 Mio L. I had my private bathroom and from the balcony I had a nice view of the castle and a good part of the town. This was my second visit of Selçuk, and I liked the town. Last time I went to see Ephesus, Pamukale and other sights which I recommend that you see http://www.freenet.tlh.fl.us/~heinisj/greece.html  and  http://www.freenet.tlh.fl.us/~heinisj/turkey2.html
    This time I wanted  to visit Aphrodisias devoted to the beauty and love goddess Aphrodite. See below.
Aphrodisias

Aphrodesias   pictures.

   Getting there was not very easy. First I took a bus in Selçuk to Nazilli, then another smaller bus to Kusadaza and then more or less hitch-hiked to the ruins of Aphrodesias. Not all back-packers make the tour. There is a hostel close by, but I planned to make the trip in one day.
        The next day I left Selçuk to Bodrum for 5 Mio. L. It took about 4 hours to get there. It is a very nice city on the Aegean Sea which during the summer has lots of tourists. But now in November I found the tourist office closed as well as my first choice for a hostel. With the help of some tourist policemen I found another one where I spent a couple of nights. There were lots of yachts along the beech and I even saw some people swimming, which upset me because I did not have my swimsuit along.
I found out the the interesting castle-museum had closed for the day.  (Cost 5 Mio L!)    After some sight-seeing I settled down for a very good meal of fish with wine.
Julius in Bodrum      It might have been nice to spend a few days in Bodrum or in Marmaris where I went next, but my time was limited. In Marmaris I found out that the ferry for Rhodes leaves that Saturday or several days later. So I bought the ticket for 50 $ US. It was a fast Catemaran that made the trip in a little over 1 hour.
        In Rhodes (or Rhodos)  I was met by a man who offered me a room. I went with him and it was quite nice, costing 5000 Drachme (Greek money).  After getting situated I walked a bit through the very old-fashioned town with large city walls, gates, pebbled streets with lots of stores for tourists. Like in Bodrum I treated myself to another good supper, sitting on an outside table.
        This was my second visit to Rhodes. I would have liked to stay a few days but the ferry to Crete was leaving next morning at the ungodly hour of 4:30 am! Remember that ferry traffic during  off season is sparse!
         CRETE.  The ferry trip  took all day, and we arrived in Setia after 3 pm. I disembarked and searched for the Youth Hostel which I eventually found. I had a room to myself for 3000 D. Setia is in the East of Crete and I did not find anything particularly interesting. So next day I walked down to the bus station and bought the ticket for Heraklion, the Capital.
        The bus trip was truly pleasant. The roads are narrow, crooked, up and down. I saw lots of olives,
some pines..... From time to time I could see the Sea which was truly beautiful.  Heraklion is rather nice.
I tried the Youth Hostel, but did not like it and instead treated myself to a nice, reasonably priced hotel (remember it was off-season). Close to the port. I visited the archeological museum where I found exhibits of Minos, Crete.....
            The day after I took a bus to Knossos.  This is definitely a must-see place.
 
Setia Knossos
Setia Knossos

My next stop was Chania which is in the West of Crete. From the bus-stop I had to find the way down to the Old Port, where I found a nice low-priced hotel. There are many restaurants and stores along the Old Port, but this time of the year there were a lot of empty tables.  It is a very nice city.

After 2 days there I took the bus from Chania to Sauda where I could board the ferry at 8 pm. In the evening it got a bit cold, but I was OK on the ferry. It took all night for us to get to Pyraeus. I arrived early in the morning when it was still dark. By turning right following the pier I found the train station and took the train to Athens.    Having been in Athens before I Just spent the day there, and in the evening took the flight back to Zürich and eventually home to Florida.
 
Chania
Chania and Ferry to Pyraeus Ducks in the park in Athens.

For other travel stories in Asia, Europe, South America, Australia please see my home page:
http://www.freenet.tlh.fl.us/~heinisj

Please write to me at    jheinis@nettally.com